From now I have decided to switch to the neck due to it seems to me the most complicated part of the build. I have read somewhere, that even big manufacturers spend up to 3 weeks for the signature model necks. Well, my model is not signature and skills are not that advanced, so, it will take longer.

The neck geometry precision is critical. If sides of the neck are not straight, it will be visible right away. So, I have decided to make a template. Here I am shaping it using a maple board as a straight edge.

Next, it is time for the final planing. This is necessary because lumber was cut last time and wood could bend or twist. Nothing like that happened, but it is still good to plane it one more time. Right after that and before I start shaping it, it is time to route a truss rod channel (otherwise it will be hard to do when long sides of the neck are not parallel to each other).

As you can see, a router makes a lot of thin shaves. Everything around gets covered with it. If you ever decide to make a guitar, use eye and ear protection and, most importantly, some dust mask.

Now it is time to glue some “ears” to the pegboard, so, it is enough lumber to fit headstock. Take a look at the walnut veneer and wenge fingerboard.

When the glue has dried, it is time to start rough shaping a headstock. First, it needs to be flattened on the back (using Shinto rasp) and thicknessed on the front. Remember that jig I have made before to plane to the thickness using the router? Yeah, it is time to use it. I just used some screws to hold headstock in it. The I have used the coping saw to cut it out.

Add here some initial sanding and rasping for the truss rod access hole and here is what you get.

Enough for the headstock for today. Now it is time to make fret slots on a fingerboard. There are several ways to do that. The easiest and the most expensive one is using some notched template and special precision jig. I have decided to do it the cheap way. For that, the following jig (actually miter box) was made. The most important thing here is precision. The space between two blocks should match the width of the saw blade, so, it does not move laterally. To calculate slots positions I have used FretFind2D tool. Then the image was printed and attached to the fingerboard using some tape. After that, it is just cutting slowly and precisely.

And finally, it is a glue time. The trick here is to add some silicone to the truss rod channel, so, truss rod does not buzz. Then it is covered with a thin strip of the tape, so, glue does not get in. And… pressure as usual.

Next day, when the glue is dried, I have removed excess of the fingerboard using the hand plane. Then cut peghead veneer and open truss rod access hole using files, rasps, and sandpaper. Finally, shape a tenon.

And here are two parts together.